Here's something that was recently posted to the Facebook page of Nature Conservation Foundation. As wildlife photographer Kalyan Varma says 'This is how we love our tigers to death in the name of tourism'.
Jaguar - Ecotourism or Ecoterrorism?
Kalyans comment could equally apply to jaguar in the Pantanal. Visitors here continue to increase as parts of this vast wetland become more accessible and developed for ecotourism. When managed well ecotourism can do wonders for wildlife and their environment, but when money outweighs welfare it's a slippery slope. I was unfortunate to experience this when I recently visited the Pantanal. For the best part of three weeks I saw jaguar every day. In fact, we saw them so often we wouldn't roll unless the light was looking good - it was a real privilege so spend so much time watching the worlds third largest cat, and undoubtedly one of the worlds most beautiful animals. Sadly this was not to last...
(Photo: Paul Williams)
(Photo: Paul Williams)
(Photo: Paul Williams)
Ecotourism or Ecoterrorism? A personal account
It was August and adults were roaming their territories on the look out for a mate. We had found the perfect place to see them - along the banks where three slowly meandering rivers merged. If we sighted a jaguar we would keep our distance and head for the opposite bank (the camera lens focal distance was up to 1000mm). This was not only for our own safety but to do everything we could to prevent our presence from influencing their behaviour - our goal is to observe wildlife and not to direct it. On occasion ecotourists would spot us and realise that we had sighted a jaguar, they would slow down, and for the most part remain hushed, respectful and careful not to disturb the animals. On occassion however, egos and derterminism got the better of them, especially when there were lots of boats. In a race to get a photo they would cut us up, and get too close for comfort - well within jaguar leaping distance. This would often result in blocking the path of a jaguar who was trying to cross the river. My cameraman called this 'ecoterrorism'.
Our guide said that many of the boat drivers had no training in good practice and did not realise, or care about what they were doing. They would probably have also been paid more money if they went closer. While this area is officially protected it is not officially policed and so it is down to common courtesy and an unwritten code between guides. Unfortunately, with more companies setting up in the area this code seems to have been lost amongst many but the old guard.
Our guide said that many of the boat drivers had no training in good practice and did not realise, or care about what they were doing. They would probably have also been paid more money if they went closer. While this area is officially protected it is not officially policed and so it is down to common courtesy and an unwritten code between guides. Unfortunately, with more companies setting up in the area this code seems to have been lost amongst many but the old guard.
Early one morning we spotted four jaguar close together - a female and three large, but immature, males. We knew that something special could happen. We slowly pulled up on the opposite bank and waited. Sure enough the jaguar started fighting. Powerful and majestic, it was something that we could have only dreamed of filming and would look sublime in slow motion. But no sooner had we started rolling did an armada of 10 tourist boats zip, at full throttle, into view. Their giant lenses and heads jutting into our frame as they rapidly encroached on the unsuspecting felines. They blocked our view of this rarely observed behaviour and in doing so denied the pleasure of this spectacle to the worlds wildlife TV audience.
From that moment on we rarely saw jaguar again. I believe that they had found the event so stressful that they decided to move on.
Everyone has the right to experience nature and wildlife, but the organisations and companies who manage this have a responsibility to ensure that the welfare of the wildlife is paramount.
From that moment on we rarely saw jaguar again. I believe that they had found the event so stressful that they decided to move on.
Everyone has the right to experience nature and wildlife, but the organisations and companies who manage this have a responsibility to ensure that the welfare of the wildlife is paramount.
Tourists block a female jaguar from crossing the river (Photo: Paul Williams)
Jaguar fight as tourists creep too close for comfort (Photo: Paul Williams)
